Olmec culture brought to Museum in Paris, France


The Museum of Quai Branly-Jacques Chirac, in Paris, France, will reopen after the confinement with the exhibition "The Olmecs and the Cultures of the Gulf of Mexico", made up of 300 pieces, such as the "Huasteco Adolescent", a sculpture that was discovered in the municipality of Tamuín in Potosi, and the "Offering 4 of La Venta", made up of 16 anthropomorphic figures and six axes representing steles.

The Quai Branly-Jacques Museum in France returns to activities with an exhibition dedicated to Mexican culture.
The Quai Branly-Jacques Museum in France returns to activities with an exhibition dedicated to Mexican culture.

The Olmecs and the cultures of the Gulf of Mexico derive from the exhibition Gulf. Ancestral Mosaic, which was presented at the National Museum of Anthropology (MNA) in 2018 and will be shown at the Paris venue through a montage that was scientifically advised by Cora Falero Ruiz of the MNA and the director of the Collections of the Americas of the Quai Branly Museum, Steve Bourget.

The exhibition is divided into six sections that begin with an introduction and go from the transcendence of the Olmec civilization -which developed over 1,200 years, between 1600 and 400 B.C.- to its influence beyond its time and space. The six sections are "Olmec culture and the achievements of the sites of San Lorenzo and La Venta", "Early forms of writing and the use of the Mesoamerican long count calendar", "Women and men of the Gulf. From the Olmec Civilization to the Huastecan Cultures, 2,500 Years of Statuary Art", "Offerings" and "Cultural Influences in Other Regions of Mesoamerica"; as well as an explanation of the Tamtoc site and a review of the "must-see works" in the exhibition.

In a statement, the Ministry of Culture said that the exhibition represents the first international exhibition project organized by the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) in 2020. It added that the exhibition provides a thematic tour that begins with the enigmatic Olmecs. Located in the plains of Veracruz and Tabasco, that great civilization produced the first sculptural tradition that spread throughout ancient Mexico and beyond, and was the architect of the first great ceremonial centers, including the first pyramid at the site of La Venta, around 800 B.C.

"The Olmecs and the cultures of the Gulf of Mexico present the diverse traditions of stone sculpture that occurred in the region, throughout time. Works that are distinguished from each other, by the difference in ethnicities, as well as the different priorities -ritual, governance, and status- that are achieved through the clothes represented in them, or by the lack of them," said the agency.

The exhibition opens with the Colossal Head of San Lorenzo which, with its 4.5 tons and 1.80 meters high, is the smallest of the ten monumental heads found in the Olmec site of San Lorenzo Tenochtitlan (Veracruz); and closes with The Scarified Woman of Tamtoc (San Luis Potosi), an atypical piece made of sandstone and of sublime forms, which reveals the importance of women in the beliefs and social organization of the Huasteca.

Alejandra Frausto, head of the Ministry of Culture, said that the exhibition is a project that will bring to the Parisian and European public the magnificence and plurality of cultures that, until before 1518, inhabited the region of the Gulf of Mexico, where it is estimated that, at the time of the Conquest, more than twenty languages were spoken. For his part, the president of the Museum of Quai Branly-Jacques Chirac, Emmanuel Kasarhérou, said that "almost three quarters of the collection that will now be exhibited is a revelation in Europe".

The pieces come from collections such as the National Museum of Anthropology (MNA), the Huasteca Culture Museum, the Regional Anthropology Museum "Carlos Pellicer Cámara", in Villahermosa, Tabasco; the Xalapa Anthropology Museum, and the San Andrés Tuxtla Regional Museum, both in Veracruz.

Olmec heads in Paris, France
Olmec heads in Paris, France

Olmec heads, ancient giants hiding underground

One day in 1862, explorer José María Melgar enthusiastically entered the swampy hell bordering the Gulf of Mexico. Despite the impenetrable jungle, overwhelming heat, and mosquitoes, oil abounded there. It even flowed through the vegetation. But the Mexican adventurer was going to receive an even bigger surprise than the expected black gold vein.

Olmec heads: Monument 3 of San Lorenzo, 178 cm high, preserved in the Museum of Anthropology of Xalapa, Veracruz, Mexico. (CC BY 2.0 / Maribel Ponce Ixba)
Olmec heads: Monument 3 of San Lorenzo, 178 cm high, preserved in the Museum of Anthropology of Xalapa, Veracruz, Mexico. (CC BY 2.0 / Maribel Ponce Ixba)

Suddenly he encountered a hard obstacle in the clay soil. Intrigued, he cleared the land and then a colossal stone head appeared before his eyes. He did not know and no one would know until the middle of the next century. However, this sculpture, endowed with a slightly strange look, had been resting there for more than three millennia. The tanker had just discovered the first trace of a lost civilization.

So forgotten that not even the Aztecs, flourishing many centuries later, remembered what it was called. Hence they called the Olman region, in their language, "the land of rubber" (for extracting from it the rubber for the balls of their sacred game), and their mysterious inhabitants of the past, the Olmecs.

Confused with the Mayans

Melgar immediately reported his finding. However, there was no interest in the monumental head. At that time it was believed to be another Mayan vestige, as so many appeared, and this town was considered the oldest of the pre-Columbian people.

In fact, the second expedition to the area, this time archaeological, fell into the same error. Directed in the interwar period by the Danish Frans Blom for an American university, it brought to light an important Olmec ceremonial center. It was that of La Venta, similar to the one the tanker had found decades ago in Tres Zapotes. But the European scholar also believed that he had come across Mayan remains.

Some scientific voices began to call this "secondary culture" of the Maya with a separate name.

Despite this misconception, some voices in the scientific community began to call this "secondary culture" of the Maya a separate name. After all, the artistic style of the Olmecs - the name that began to circulate following the Aztec example - did not resemble those known in Mesoamerica.

Among the archeologists who favored this autonomy with respect to the Mayan legacy, there was one who would unearth more colossal heads and, with them, part of the truth about the intriguing civilization that had produced them. Matthew Stirling, the man in question, worked for the Smithsonian Institution in Washington.

Shortly before the outbreak of World War II, he took advantage of a vacation in Mexico to visit Tres Zapotes. What he found there confirmed his suspicions: whoever they had been, the Olmecs seemed very pre-Mayan. Back in the United States, he convinced his museum and the National Geographic Society.

The earliest

Both entities financed eight successive missions that, led by Stirling with the assistance of his wife, yielded dozens of relevant findings. Thanks to the marriage excavations, the main ceremonial centers of the Olmecs came to light. Trapezoidal altars, sacred steles, polished jade figurines, ceramic elements, and, most spectacularly, new monumental heads emerged from the jungle and savannah.

The Olmec pyramid of La Venta is the oldest in Mesoamerica. (Public Domain)
The Olmec pyramid of La Venta is the oldest in Mesoamerica. (Public Domain)

These treasures revolutionized archaeology when the artist Miguel Covarrubias, the scholar Alfonso Caso and other scholars presented them to the Mexican Society of Anthropology in the middle of the world war. The uproar was due to the fact that, in light of the evidence provided by Stirling, these scholars proposed a radical theory: Olmec culture had not only been different from the Maya, but had generated the latter.

In other words, the rediscovered inhabitants of "the land of rubber" had founded the first American civilization, the matrix of the later ones. Many archaeologists opposed this interpretation, which was based on the lower half of a stele, named C, found by the Stirling in Tres Zapotes. One side of this piece showed the most remote date written in Mayan.

But this one, on September 3, 32 B.C., could not be clearly deciphered, which gave rise to numerous readings for almost three decades. Only the use of carbon 14 in 1956 and the discovery of the upper half of the stele thirteen years later confirmed the extreme age of the Olmecs.


Meanwhile, invaluable testimonies continued to emerge. The Stirling couple and later colleagues such as Michael Coe or Ann Cyphers unearthed more colossal heads and other stone figures in the Olmec nuclear area, located in the arc that traces the Gulf of Mexico on the coast of Tabasco and Veracruz.

Olmecs may have been the original model of later civilizations.

These remains arose in such abundance that a museum was even created to house them, the first anthropological museum in Mexico, Xalapa (or MAX). Excavations also revealed significant urban features in the large ceremonial centers. In San Lorenzo, there were ruins of houses organized around a central courtyard that was believed to be typical of the Mayas.

And in La Venta, a huge stepped pyramid of mud came to light, a predecessor of those built-in stone centuries later by other peoples. As for Tres Zapotes, the stela C found there became, once its dating was corroborated, an early example of Mesoamerican calendars.

In the eighties, the founding role of the Olmecs was reaffirmed in a gloomy aspect: human sacrifices. The ones made by Mayas and Aztecs could have their origin in those practiced by the sculptors of the giant heads, as it was detached from some wooden figures buried next to the skeleton of an immolated baby.

A few years ago the pioneering character of the Olmecs was once again demonstrated in yet another facet, writing, thanks to hieroglyphics very much earlier than the Zapotecs, until then considered the most archaic in America. All these indications have not only ratified the antiquity of the Olmecs. They also validate the theory that they could have been the original model of later civilizations, an idea that continues to arouse debate, as the degree of this influence is not yet determined.

Children's figure of Olmec culture. (Walters Art Museum)
Children's figure of Olmec culture. (Walters Art Museum)

In fact, there are still many riddles to be solved about this culture which had its boom between 1200 and 400 BC. The most notable revolves around the colossal heads which led to its rediscovery. Monolithic, they measure from 1.5 to 3 meters high and weigh between 6 and more than 40 tons. It must have been a real challenge to carve them, because the basalt they are made of is a hard rock, and that culture lacked metal tools.

Another even more intriguing aspect is the origin of its material, volcanic type, non-existent in the Olmec metropolitan area, clay soils. To find it, you had to go to the elevations of Tuxtla, more than 80 km away, and carry the moles to the ceremonial places. It is estimated that, as the Olmecs did not know the wheel, they transported the blocks in rafts that went up the numerous local rivers.

A monolithic mystery

The function of these monuments is also not known with certainty. It is not known if they obeyed a commemorative purpose - in which case they represent kings, priests, warriors, or ballplayers - or a ritual end, of cult to the ancestors. The fact is that each of the heads found has personalized factions.

Their existence suggests the extent to which they continue to raise unknowns, 3,500 years after their appearance.

Except for these differences and the variable dimensions, they all share the gigantic size, the fact that they have been painted and buried - it is also ignored why - and the being portraits that always exhibit a helmet or headdress, slightly cross-eyed round eyes, a wide nose, and fleshy lips.

Some archaeologists have seen in this physiognomy, more black than indigenous, a proof of protohistoric migrations from Africa to America. Although few subscribe to this thesis, its existence suggests the extent to which it continues to raise unknowns, 3,500 years after its appearance, the first civilization of the New World.