Islas Marías Semi-Freedom and the Ghosts of Laguna 'El Toro'

Islas Marías is an island of haunting contradictions. Imagine a prison where inmates live in “dignified small departments,” farm, fish, and even have their families move in—almost a utopia confined. But there's a dark underbelly: Laguna “El Toro,” a facility for 'highly dangerous' inmates.

Islas Marías Semi-Freedom and the Ghosts of Laguna 'El Toro'
Inmates and their families participating in daily farming activities, living proof of Islas Marías' revolutionary approach to penitentiary reform. Credit: Wikimedia

When the words “prison island” are uttered, one's mind may conjure images reminiscent of the notorious Alcatraz or the grim Devil's Island. But the Islas Marías off the coast of Mexico offer a different narrative, marked by stark contrasts that speak volumes about the evolving ethos of incarceration and human rights.

In one part of the island, you'll find a bastion of semi-freedom, where inmates and their families live and work together, a radical departure from traditional penitentiary practices. In another, you'll encounter the ghostly remnants of Laguna “El Toro,” a facility that once held “highly dangerous” inmates under conditions that could only be described as hellish.

The Human Rights Chapter

Following the Declaration of Human Rights and subsequent reforms in Mexico's penal laws, the main penitentiary center on Islas Marías began a dramatic transformation. Gone were the dark dungeons and punitive regimes. In their place rose what can only be described as “dignified small departments” in camps across the island. Over the years, different administrators took charge, and though some were criticized for indulging their whims to appease higher-ups on the mainland, the general trajectory was towards more humane living conditions.

In a move that defied conventional wisdom, some inmates were even permitted to have their families move in with them. They engaged in productive activities like agriculture, fishing, and garbage collection, effectively forming a functional society confined. To crown it all, the island was declared a Natural Protected Area and categorized as a Biosphere Reserve in 2000.

Laguna “El Toro”

However, nestled within this seemingly progressive setup lay a festering sore: Laguna “El Toro,” a separate facility for inmates deemed “highly dangerous.” Unlike the main penitentiary, conditions here remained deplorable. In fact, it was only after intense scrutiny from the National Human Rights Commission, spurred by family members' complaints in 2012 about the lack of water supply following a hurricane, that the facility ceased operations in 2014.

Today, the physical remains of Laguna “El Toro” stand as an eerie monument to its troubled past. The rusted iron walls and barbed wire are haunting, but what's most poignant is the mural preserved within its confines. It features a bull at the center, surrounded by carved images reflecting inmates' deep yearnings for education, work, and most poignantly, freedom.

The Island of Contradictions

Islas Marías stands as a complex symbol. On one hand, it represents the potential for prison reform, showcasing what can happen when human rights are prioritized. On the other hand, the lingering scars of Laguna “El Toro” serve as a grim reminder that progress is not always uniformly applied and that hidden away from the public eye, human suffering can continue unabated.

This duality raises crucial questions. Can a prison system ever fully shake off its darker aspects? And how can society ensure that the progressive ethos enshrined in laws and declarations is not merely window dressing but permeates every facet of institutional conduct?

Islas Marías offers no easy answers. But it does present a vivid tableau of the challenges and contradictions that come with attempting to reconcile the concepts of punishment, reform, and human dignity.

Source: González Madruga, C. D. (2020). Islas Marías libro-guía de turismo (1st ed.). Secretaría de Turismo.